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Well will go through this tread and see what I can learn. Tranny replacement is still always just one of options. Will see what is there at police auction to.
Hey guys im in the later stages of getting ready to AV6 swap my 2001 TL but i have a few questions. ive been lurking through this swap thread for a while now but im not sure if i understand 100% as some of these are conflicting/confusing.
on my search for a 06/07 BAYA I ended up with what seems to be a BAYA from an 05 accord.
i thought the BAYA only came from 06/07?
Some say its the same with the exception of TC and others say 04/05 BAYA came with their own issues or higher swap failure rates.
can anybody clarify/ confirm this?
are there some differences in design that makes the 06/07 better vs 04/05 besides the fitment of the TC?
am i good to go with this 05 BAYA if i go out and find an 07 TC?
the BAYA i have now looks to be in good condition so if i can use this one and get a new TC. It would save me a trip in having to return it and hunt for a new one.
apologies if this had been answered prior and i just didnt see it.
big thanks
It is my understanding that the change that fixed the internal issues was not adopted until 2006. The 2006 and 2007 have the fixes and fit in the Acura without a lot of changes. I do not believe the 2005 will have the changes. Hopefully others will chime in here.
I would like to thank the OP and all those who contributed to this thread, providing all the info needed to do this swap successfully. I just finished swapping in a rebuilt Accord transmission into a 01 CL and it drives beautifully, better that new, again. All the info provided was spot on except that the CL did not need the power steering bypass procedure, since it did not have those hoses. All else worked very well. Thank you again.
Well the life of the TL was short lived. Someone did not properly gauge the width of the road while doing a u-turn and took out the front end of the TL. The car can still be driven but the front end is destroyed. Even with sourcing parts from pick/pull, etc. its probably not worth fixing. Oh well. Sort of frustrating to finally finish the swap and then have it destroyed.
^^^ My 03 tranny give up at 2/4. At 2/11 I went to auction in st paul. There was a 08 tl. Ziners said to me it has good tranny. Didn't spot that seats are worn out. When a guy made the key for me, I was shocked that it has 340k. Replaced rotor and caliper at passenger side and upper control arm at driver side. How much I know car is driving like shamp and I plan to hold at it for next a couple years. I was thinking to replace tranny but spotted that subframe broke to, yeah both around same time, so I give at my old one. gone but not forgotten. https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1...2g-3g-1002100/
I haven't read through this entire thread yet, but I have a good deal. But I have a question.
I am looking for rebuilt or JDM tranny's and some places that sell them are linking years 03-07. Meaning that V6 auto tranny should fit anyone of those years.
So, Is it still 06 and 07 only or are 03–05 compatible too?
They are using “J32A” in the description.
Last edited by Igotissues666; 04-06-2023 at 01:28 AM.
I haven't read through this entire thread yet, but I have a good deal. But I have a question.
I am looking for rebuilt or JDM tranny's and some places that sell them are linking years 03-07. Meaning that V6 auto tranny should fit anyone of those years.
So, Is it still 06 and 07 only or are 03–05 compatible too?
They are using “J32A” in the description.
I wouldn't use a JDM transmission. Why? Then final BAYA coded transmission, widely reported as the best of the AV6 versions, was built exclusively in the United States.
If you go through this thread (I know its massive) you will see that nobody ever proved that the JDM units had the fix incorporated in the design. The 06-07 Accords did have the fix incorporated and that is why they are the units that are recommended. Read the entire thread.
I read through the first 5 pages, got excited, and started looking for used junkyard tranny's. Then, I thought, why take a chance on a used tranny that's found in a destroyed car? That's when I started looking for JDM and remanufactured AT's.
I wouldn't use a JDM transmission. Why? Then final BAYA coded transmission, widely reported as the best of the AV6 versions, was built exclusively in the United States.
I am unfortunately looking into a replacement tranny for a TL I just purchased smh. I have replaced all the sensors and have done 2 fluid drain and fills and a filter change to no success. Where are you guys sourcing these transmissions from besides junk yards? All the transmissions online lead me to JDM transmissions at about $1,110 shipped. From what I've read it seems as though I should go with the TL JDM transmission and not the AV6 JDM transmission correct? I'm not looking forward to doing this job as there's no step by step DIY on how to remove the transmission from the bottom (I do not have a hoist). I'm sure I'll get it done its just going to take a whole weekend to do. I just finished the timing belt and water pump along with a bunch of other little projects so I'm too far in to just sell the car at a huge loss at this point. Looking for the best option to obtain a good transmission. Thanks in advance.
@TLHD, not sure where you're reading information teaching away from using the AV6 transmission in favor of a JDM tranny. The fact is the 2006-2007 AV6 (coded as a BAYA unit) is widely considered the best of the H5 transmissions and that tranny was only built in the United States. Said another way, no JDM units need apply for the job in your TL.
"AV6 JDM transmission" not USDM AV6 transmission. So for the same price its better to get a 160k mile USDM AV6 over a 50k ish JDM TL transmission? I just want to make sure before I waste more money on the car.
I do not know what the code is for the JDM accord transmission from what I saw and what you stated the "good" one was only USDM. So it looks like my options are low mile JDM TL or junk yard US "BAYA". Just looking into some guidance on which way to go as most junk yard transmissions are higher mileage.
TLHD,
As with all things there is no guarantee, however if you want the transmission that is known to have the fix to problem it is the US BAYA transmission from a 2006 or 2007 Honda Accord sedan or coupe. As other have said the JDM version is a unknown. People generally don't want to tell you what to do, as hey, you can get one that is bad. If it was me I would get the 160K unit and a new Torque Converter. Make sure the flex plate and torque converter match.
Have you looked through car-part.com? lists parts from all over.
Last edited by Jon M; 04-19-2023 at 03:48 PM.
Reason: more info
I totally understand as I never like telling someone what to do so that I don't get blamed down the line. Would the torque converter off the used AV6 tranny not be good?
I have looked through car-part, I am going to stalk the site and hope for a good deal to pop up.
Many people here have re-used the TC that came with the AV6, with success. It is my own personal preference to replace high wear parts if I can. In the situation you described above I would prefer to put in a new or rebuilt TC in a tranny that has 160k miles than to install the tranny and have to take it apart again to replace it. The TC's in the original tranny's were one the parts that help cause the failures, as the clutch material clogged some ports and internal tranny filter. The TC seems to me to be a good part to start with fresh.
You do have to make sure that whatever way you do it that the drive plate lines up before you try to install.
"AV6 JDM transmission" not USDM AV6 transmission. So for the same price its better to get a 160k mile USDM AV6 over a 50k ish JDM TL transmission? I just want to make sure before I waste more money on the car.
There is no such a thing as an "AV6 JDM transmission".
I did the swap without a hoist. Just followed the Transmission removal process in the Service Manual. Think it took me 18 hours over 2 days. This thread was spot on.
Alright so about the part where you loop the power steering lines back to each other;
Has anyone tried going all out and swapping bell housings from TL-p 02’ trans and bolting that bell housing to the 07’ BAYA case in order to run the power steering speed sensor?
Alright so about the part where you loop the power steering lines back to each other;
Has anyone tried going all out and swapping bell housings from TL-p 02’ trans and bolting that bell housing to the 07’ BAYA case in order to run the power steering speed sensor?
Havent heard of anyone doing that personally, but it sounds possible. Only thing is you would risk jumping into seemingly completely unexplored territory, hours of labor, and a lot of headache just to find out that you cant fit everything back into the speed sensor incorporated housing.
and then have to put everything back the way its supposed to back into the original.
or you could just loop the power steering lines and deal with steering thats a little more stiff lol
it feels weird at first but not something you cant get used to.
Alright so about the part where you loop the power steering lines back to each other;
Has anyone tried going all out and swapping bell housings from TL-p 02’ trans and bolting that bell housing to the 07’ BAYA case in order to run the power steering speed sensor?
Havent heard of anyone doing that personally, but it sounds possible. Only thing is you would risk jumping into seemingly completely unexplored territory, hours of labor, and a lot of headache just to find out that you cant fit everything back into the speed sensor incorporated housing.
and then have to put everything back the way its supposed to back into the original.
or you could just loop the power steering lines and deal with steering thats a little more stiff lol
it feels weird at first but not something you cant get used to.
I definitely agree but being that I have both trans side by side and am willing to be the first to try if no one can verify a successful completion.
That’s really it? Stiffer PS? 🤦🏻♂️ I still have an itch in me to go all out… 🤪
I definitely agree but being that I have both trans side by side and am willing to be the first to try if no one can verify a successful completion.
That’s really it? Stiffer PS? 🤦🏻♂️ I still have an itch in me to go all out… 🤪
Well it isn't just the fac tof "stiffer steering". If you block the bypass instead of looping it you get totally "light" steering and it is MAJORLY dangerous at highway speeds because of the steering ratio in the premium models.
I did that to try it out and noticed that a small amount of steering caused the car to jump.
Now older land-yachts had very light steering but the ratio used was so much different you needed to put almost a quarter turn into the wheel to get a slight change in actual steering. The TL-p is quite the opposite, a small change it is is making much bigger changes than you expect at highway speeds. Again, I would consider it a serious safety issue. Mine is set to full bypass and highway driving is no different than with the original transmission with speed sensor.
Well the life of the TL was short lived. Someone did not properly gauge the width of the road while doing a u-turn and took out the front end of the TL. The car can still be driven but the front end is destroyed. Even with sourcing parts from pick/pull, etc. its probably not worth fixing. Oh well. Sort of frustrating to finally finish the swap and then have it destroyed.
Finally got around to donating the car. Not worth trying to part out. One less thing in the driveway now. So that's a plus.
Asking the obvious question, Did you triple check all the connections that were undone? It is very easy to miss a connector. If you are positive you got them all, then please give the symptoms. What happens when you turn the key, cranking, not cranking, Battery voltage, dash lights, do you hear the fuel pump come on before you get to the crank position, do you have spark? Need a bit more than it won't start, Ideally since you replaced the tranny there is nothing that should affect the car starting if it was running before you replaced the tranny. Make sure all the grounds are connected, specially the one by the starter.
Does the car turn over at all? If not, you more than likely need to adjust the transmission range switch. recall: If it's not installed properly the PCM reports that the shift selector is in gear and will not allow the starter to function,
[Everything is connected but some of the grounds look pretty corodid. so Im going to clean those up on my next day off. here are some symptoms. Batery is in. interior has power. wont crank. tripple checked that the shift sensor and shifter are both in the park position. However I dont beleive that the transmission is in park. The front is still lifted and the wheels rotate. so I'm hoping if we can get it to crank that sort it self out
[Everything is connected but some of the grounds look pretty corodid. so Im going to clean those up on my next day off. here are some symptoms. Batery is in. interior has power. wont crank. tripple checked that the shift sensor and shifter are both in the park position. However I dont beleive that the transmission is in park. The front is still lifted and the wheels rotate. so I'm hoping if we can get it to crank that sort it self out
NO, it will NOT "sort itself out". Mechanics do not work like that.
It is already obvious that the shift sensor is the issue.
Did you reuse the old shift sensor or rewire in the new sensor?
If you wired in a new sensor you are on your own since you either could have a simple alignment issue or the wiring is wrong.
If you reused the old sensor it is simple to get the vehicle started, just take the sensor off and manually twist it into the "park" position which has a detent. It will "click" when in park. You can then start the vehicle. Once you know the vehicle starts, then properly mount and adjust the sensor.
That does not FIX the issue that you need to have the shifting cable installed properly and the sensor on the stub and adjusted properly. Go back and read the FSM on how to do that and get that done.
But, NEVER "assume" that stuff will just "figure itself out" since there is ZERO logic in that.
Also, why would you EVER put on bad grounds??? Take the time and fix all the little issues you see as you are doing the job.
02-27-2023, 03:37 AM
